- Diamond Shapes
ROUND 
This 58 facet symmetrical shape can display the greatest amount of sparkle with a balance between the amount of white flashes of light and colored flashes of light. It is the benchmark shape all others are compared to and the only one that has internationally recognized cut grades. Generally, rounds are the most expensive but can offer the greatest amount of sparkle per dollar.
FANCY SHAPES
These shapes are usually less expensive because the rough diamonds used to produce them are more common and generally less costly. Over the past 20 years, new shapes and facet arrangements have been introduced to increase the use, appeal and value of rough diamonds that would be traditionally difficult to market.
Choosing a properly proportioned fancy shaped diamond is much more complex than a round shape. Most fancy shapes cannot sparkle like a well-cut round. The facets of fancy shaped diamonds are elongated, asymmetrical, and can deviate greatly from the ideal, causing light to leak out the diamond's bottom. This also causes small multi-colored flashes of light to be concentrated in pointed areas and larger flashes to occur in rounded or elongated areas.
A "bowtie" shaped area of diminished sparkle can span the center width of most fancy shapes. This consequence has the least negative effect when it is narrow and very light gray (it is rarely colorless or invisible). A dark and pronounced bowtie will decrease the value and beauty by more than 20%.
Another important consideration unique to fancy shapes is the length and width ratio (L: W), calculated by dividing the diamond's length by the diamond's width. Many other considerations are structural deficiencies such as thin edges near pointed areas and uneven or bulged shape outlines.
Unlike round diamonds, cut grades of fancy shapes do not exist. We employ sophisticated methods that accurately predict and demonstrate how the sparkle of one set of ratios and proportions will compare quantitatively to another. Less desirable fat or thin shapes are produced from irregular (and less costly) shaped rough diamonds. They are also produced by cutters who intentionally grind as little of the rough diamond away as possible to retain excess weight for higher profits. This excess weight and material does not contribute to beauty and therefore should not contribute to higher value.
You will find our expertise to be very helpful in choosing any fancy shape as well as a round diamond.
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OVAL
This 57 facet shape is an elongated round and therefore displays a similar kind of sparkle. Avoid squarish stones. An oval's preferred L: W ratio is 1.33:1 - 1.66:1
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| Ratio 1:1.25 | Ratio 1:1.33 | Ratio 1:1.50 | Ratio 1:1.66 | Ratio 1:1.75 | |
| MARQUISE This 58-facet shape is most sought after with a L: W ratio of 2:1. Doubling some of the facets in the pavilion minimizes the bowtie effect. Marquises with L: W ratios of near 1.75:1 or 2.25:1 are in higher supply and less expensive. Look out for sharp girdle edges and thin end points, which could make this shape diamond prone to damage. |
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| Ratio 1:1.50 | Ratio 1:1.75 | Ratio 1:2.00. | Ratio 1:2.25 | Ratio 1:2.33 | |
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PEAR This 58 facet shape has a preferred L: W ratio of 1.50:1 to 1.75: 1. Avoid pear shapes with squarish shoulders or a poorly defined end point. The addition of extra facets to the midsection of the pavilion can minimize the bowtie affect. They cost 10 - 15% less than rounds. |
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| Ratio 1:1.33 | Ratio 1:1.50 | Ratio 1:1.66 | Ratio 1:1.75 | Ratio 1:2.00 | |
| HEART This 57 facet shape is best with a well define cleft between the lobes and the two halves are symmetrically shaped. Asymmetrically shaped stones and those that might be mistaken for a pear shape with a small dimple are heavily discounted in price and beauty. This shape appears best when cut with a L: W ratio of 1:1. |
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PRINCESS
This 76 facet shape is available as a square or a rectangular. It is capable of displaying white flashes of light (brilliance) but their typically thin crown produces very little multi-colored flashes of light (fire). More weight is located below the edge than any other shape, therefore its size in millimeters is the smallest per carat weight. The usual high weight yield from rough makes it one of the least expensive shapes to manufacture and is often over-priced. |
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| FLANDERS This 41 facet shape is usually square with beveled corners. Its facet arrangement and proportions make its beauty second only to an ideally cut round shape and superior to all other non-round diamonds. This cutting style displays exceptional brilliance and fire while maintaining a larger millimeter size per carat than the princess shape. In fact, this shape out-sparkles more than 90% of round diamonds on today's market. |
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RADIANT This 70 facet shape is available as a rectangular or a square with beveled corners. Generally, its steeper crown angle and smaller table facet allows it to display more fire than a princess cut.
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| EMERALD This 50 facet shape is usually rectangular with beveled corners. The rows of elongated facets define this style of faceting as step cut (instead of the kite or triangular shaped facets of the brilliant cutting style). The angles and proportions of the facets of this shape causes it to sparkle the least and as a result, imperfections and body color may be much more apparent to the naked eye. To be most appealing, higher color and clarity grades are recommended. The L: W ratio should be 1.50:1 to 1.75:1. |
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| TRILLION This 50 facet shape are mainly sold as matched pairs |
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| LILY This 65 facet shape is one of the newest and most unusual. |
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| CRISSCUT This rectangular with beveled corners shape is cut with 77 brilliant cut facets |
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DAHLIA This 63 facet twelve-sided shape is a mixed of step and brilliant cutting style |
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| FIREROSE This 61 facet six-sided shape is a mixed step and brilliant cutting style. |  |
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MARIGOLD This 73 facet eight-sided step cut. |
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| SUNFLOWER This 45 - 61 facet eight-sided shape is a mixed step and brilliant cutting style |  |
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ZINNIA This 76 facet round shape is mixed cut | ||||
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